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The Stokes drift is the difference in end positions, after a predefined amount of time (usually one wave period), as derived from a description in the Lagrangian and Eulerian coordinates. The end position in the Lagrangian description is obtained by following a specific fluid parcel during the time interval.
Wave–current interaction is also one of the possible mechanisms for the occurrence of rogue waves, such as in the Agulhas Current. When a wave group encounters an opposing current, the waves in the group may pile up on top of each other which will propagate into a rogue wave. [1] [2]
The disturbance created by the oscillating plate travels as the transverse wave through the fluid, but it is highly damped by the exponential factor. The depth of penetration δ = 2 ν / ω {\displaystyle \delta ={\sqrt {2\nu /\omega }}} of this wave decreases with the frequency of the oscillation, but increases with the kinematic viscosity of ...
Stokes's wave theory is of direct practical use for waves on intermediate and deep water. It is used in the design of coastal and offshore structures, in order to determine the wave kinematics (free surface elevation and flow velocities). The wave kinematics are subsequently needed in the design process to determine the wave loads on a ...
The existence of a greater number of particles that move slower than the wave phase velocity as compared with those that move faster, leads to an energy transfer from the wave to the particles. In the case of the two-stream instability , when an electron stream is injected to the plasma, the particles' velocity distribution function has a "bump ...
In the differential form formulation on arbitrary space times, F = 1 / 2 F αβ dx α ∧ dx β is the electromagnetic tensor considered as a 2-form, A = A α dx α is the potential 1-form, = is the current 3-form, d is the exterior derivative, and is the Hodge star on forms defined (up to its orientation, i.e. its sign) by the ...
Will Shortz, the longtime crossword puzzle editor of the New York Times and NPR’s “puzzlemaster” for more than three decades, suffered a stroke last month and has spent the last several ...
North Pacific storm waves as seen from the NOAA M/V Noble Star, Winter 1989. The number of waves in a wave group, measured in space at a certain moment is: Λ g / λ. While measured at a fixed location in time, the number of waves in a group is: τ g / T. So the ratio of the number of waves measured in space to those measured in time is: