Search results
Results from the WOW.Com Content Network
If the paint can says 12 hours, then wait 48 because of the possible interaction with the glues used. If the paint can says 1 to 2 hours, I wait at least 24 hours. The paint can's instructions for drying are based on the fact that it will be touched or used in a normal situation.
When I laser engrave pens I use rub n buff type paint on acrylic pens. I put a transfer tape mask over the pen and engrave through the mask and into the material then paint. I've used many different paints over the years, but generally just use black krylon spray paint on pens with just text.
I have done a few acrylic pens and have painted the tubes only before gluing in the tube. On couple of the pens the paint seemed to come loose from the tube. I only noticed this during the finishing process when I felt a bump that should not have been there. It looked like the blank was coming loose in small sections.
I make pens in bunches and can paint 18" of tubes in about 20 seconds. Best to let them dry overnight, but I've shorten it to a few hours in a pinch. Blank Painting - Blow out any grit from the hole in the blank. Simply hold the paint can nozzle about an inch from the hole and give it a quick spray, then do the same from the other end of the blank.
Oil-based paint pens are also good for labels that resist fading. Deco brand pens seem especially good and can be found in most craft stores. For even more durability, you can apply a clear coat of polyurethane or even clear nail polish on top of the lettering.
I have over a dozen, the one I posted is kinda scrap, I might be able to salvage it and get some value from it if I strip the paint. I've seen some pelikan ibis and other old celluloid pens where the paint is completely gone, but the body is still intact. Anyways, I have a few things I wanna try now thanks to those links. I'll update with how ...
I have a potential client that is interested in ordering a decent number of pens, 30 to start, but potentially more regular batches of 60 down the road. They want to have their logo engraved on the pens. I've been looking at engravers, but I'm honestly a bit lost.
So after painting the insides of the blanks the lid part of both pens shows very slightly the brass tube which means that some scraping of the paint must have occurred whereas the bottom parts of both pens has no scraping. I didn't notice any paint scraping when inserting the brass tubes and used 5 min epoxy to glue the tube into the blanks.
Having literally made thousands of "Sierra type" pens, I can tell you that on a set quantity (1, 20, 100, 500) of pens, from vendor to vendor the price difference is almost always less than $1 per unit. Some vendors offer reduced shipping, others have free stuff, etc.
Scratch lines show through where the paint didn't seep in. Sanding to remove scratch lines makes the bore hole too large, and the tube is no longer snug, leading to concentricity issues or ruining the blank. Paint is too thick, and tube scrapes it right off on insertion. Paint is too thin and the tube still shows through.