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  2. Return period - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Return_period

    A return period, also known as a recurrence interval or repeat interval, is an average time or an estimated average time between events such as earthquakes, floods, [1] landslides, [2] or river discharge flows to occur. It is a statistical measurement typically based on historic data over an extended period, and is used usually for risk analysis.

  3. Basil Wrigley Wilson - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basil_Wrigley_Wilson

    Graph showing wave height predictions using Wilson's formula (1965) Graph showing wave period predictions using Wilson's formula (1965) Goda adapted Wilson's formula with a simple equation which is first used to calculate the minimum fetch (F min): =

  4. Periodogram - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Periodogram

    A power spectrum (magnitude-squared) of two sinusoidal basis functions, calculated by the periodogram method. Two power spectra (magnitude-squared) (rectangular and Hamming window functions plus background noise), calculated by the periodogram method.

  5. Frequency - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frequency

    The period (symbol T) is the interval of time between events, so the period is the reciprocal of the frequency: T = 1/f. [ 2 ] Frequency is an important parameter used in science and engineering to specify the rate of oscillatory and vibratory phenomena, such as mechanical vibrations, audio signals ( sound ), radio waves , and light .

  6. Sea state - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sea_state

    The significant wave height H 1/3 — the mean wave height of the highest third of the waves. The mean wave period, T 1. In addition to the short-term wave statistics presented above, long-term sea state statistics are often given as a joint frequency table of the significant wave height and the mean wave period.

  7. Significant wave height - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Significant_wave_height

    Significant wave height H 1/3, or H s or H sig, as determined in the time domain, directly from the time series of the surface elevation, is defined as the average height of that one-third of the N measured waves having the greatest heights: [5] / = = where H m represents the individual wave heights, sorted into descending order of height as m increases from 1 to N.

  8. Stokes drift - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stokes_drift

    k is the wave number: k = 2π/λ (radians per meter), ω is the angular frequency: ω = 2π/T (radians per second), x is the horizontal coordinate and the wave propagation direction (meters), z is the vertical coordinate, with the positive z direction pointing out of the fluid layer (meters), λ is the wave length (meters), T is the wave period .

  9. Periodic function - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Periodic_function

    An illustration of a periodic function with period . A periodic function, also called a periodic waveform (or simply periodic wave), is a function that repeats its values at regular intervals or periods. The repeatable part of the function or waveform is called a cycle. [1]