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Goldwork is always surface embroidery and free embroidery; the vast majority is a form of laid work or couching; that is, the gold threads are held onto the surface of the fabric by a second thread, usually of fine silk. The ends of the thread, depending on type, are simply cut off, or are pulled through to the back of the embroidery and ...
Zari (or jari) is an even thread traditionally made of fine gold or silver used in traditional Indian, Bangladeshi and Pakistani garments, especially as brocade in saris etc. [1] This thread is woven into fabrics, primarily silk, to make intricate patterns and elaborate designs of embroidery called zardozi.
Passing thread (or Japanese gold/silver thread) is a yarn that features a round metallic thread (which may be real silver or gold leaf, or imitation) wound around a core of silk, linen or cotton thread. [2]: 227 Plate is a flat, ribbon-like strip of metal that is couched onto fabric using regular thread.
The Butler-Bowdon Cope, 1330–1350, V&A Museum no. T.36-1955.. The Anglo-Saxon embroidery style combining split stitch and couching with silk and goldwork in gold or silver-gilt thread of the Durham examples flowered from the 12th to the 14th centuries into a style known to contemporaries as Opus Anglicanum or "English work".
Craftsmen embroidered items with gold and silver thread. Embroidery cottage industries, some employing over 800 people, grew to supply these items. [9] In the 16th century, in the reign of the Mughal Emperor Akbar, his chronicler Abu al-Fazl ibn Mubarak wrote in the famous Ain-i-Akbari:
Zardozi embroidery uses a wide variety of gold and silver embellishments such as: flat metal wires, spangles, coiled wires, heavy wires, and twisted wires. [3] Designs are often created using gold and silver threads and can incorporate pearls, beads, and precious stones. [4]
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