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Lamb waves propagate in solid plates or spheres. [1] They are elastic waves whose particle motion lies in the plane that contains the direction of wave propagation and the direction perpendicular to the plate. In 1917, the English mathematician Horace Lamb published his classic analysis and description of acoustic waves of this type. Their ...
The earth's rotation relative to this shape causes the daily tidal cycle. The ocean surface tends toward this equilibrium shape, which is constantly changing, and never quite attains it. When the ocean surface is not aligned with it, it's as though the surface is sloping, and water accelerates in the down-slope direction.
Figure 2. Eigenvalue ε of wave modes of zonal wave number s = 1 vs. normalized frequency ν = ω/Ω where Ω = 7.27 × 10 −5 s −1 is the angular frequency of one solar day. Waves with positive (negative) frequencies propagate to the east (west). The horizontal dashed line is at ε c ≃ 11 and indicates the transition from internal to ...
The typical tidal range in the open ocean is about 1 metre (3 feet) – mapped in blue and green at right. Mean ranges near coasts vary from near zero to 11.7 metres (38.4 feet), [ 4 ] with the range depending on the volume of water adjacent to the coast, and the geography of the basin the water sits in. Larger bodies of water have higher ...
This pulls the crests closer together and increases the waves' height, which is called wave shoaling. When the ratio of the wave's height to the water depth increases above a certain limit, it "breaks", toppling over in a mass of foaming water. [49] This rushes in a sheet up the beach before retreating into the sea under the influence of gravity.
Oceanography (from Ancient Greek ὠκεανός (ōkeanós) 'ocean' and γραφή (graphḗ) 'writing'), also known as oceanology, sea science, ocean science, and marine science, is the scientific study of the ocean, including its physics, chemistry, biology, and geology.
“The most dreaded bit of ocean on the globe – and rightly so,” Alfred Lansing wrote of explorer Ernest Shackleton’s 1916 voyage across it in a small lifeboat. It is, of course, the Drake ...
A Kelvin wave is a wave in the ocean, a large lake or the atmosphere that balances the Earth's Coriolis force against a topographic boundary such as a coastline, or a waveguide such as the equator. A feature of a Kelvin wave is that it is non-dispersive , i.e., the phase speed of the wave crests is equal to the group speed of the wave energy ...