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During the early 20th century, knickerbockers were also increasingly worn by women. The fashion was exported from the US to Britain around the 1860s and continued until the 1920s, when it was superseded by above-knee-length short trousers (shorts), probably due to the popularity of the scouting movement whose uniform included shorts.
Full, hip-length "lampshade" tunics were worn over narrow, draped skirts. By 1914, skirts were widest at the hips and very narrow at the ankle. These hobble skirts made long strides impossible. Tunics became longer and underskirts fuller and shorter. By 1916 women were wearing calf-length dresses. [8]
Newspaper advertisement for women's dresses, Paris Dress Shoppe, Allentown PA, 1930. Summer fashion, 1930. Woman's dress, 1931. A collection of swimwear, Ladies Home Journal, 1932. Dutch actress Cissy van Bennekom and model Eva Waldschmidt, 1932. Workers leaving the factory, Buenos Aires, 1933. Models wearing evening dresses by Jeanne Lanvin, 1933.
The adoption of over-the-knee boots as a fashion item for women began in the early 1960s. In 1962, Balenciaga's fall collection featured a tall boot by Mancini that just covered the knee [4] [5] and the following year, Yves Saint Laurent's couture collection included thigh-length alligator skin boots by designer Roger Vivier.
By the 1920s, the negligee began to mimic women's satin single-layer evening dress of the period. The term "negligee" was used on a Royal Doulton run of ceramic figurines in 1927, showing women wearing what appears to be a one-piece knee-length slip made of silk or rayon, trimmed with lace.
Mary Edwards Walker, c. 1870. Walker was arrested several times for dressing in male attire. In 1851, early women's rights advocate Elizabeth Smith Miller introduced Amelia Bloomer to a garment initially known as the "Turkish dress", which featured a knee-length skirt over Turkish-style pantaloons. [16]
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Bustles and elaborate drapery characterize gowns of the early 1870s. The gentleman wears evening dress. Detail of Too Early by James Tissot, 1873.. 1870s fashion in European and European-influenced clothing is characterized by a gradual return to a narrow silhouette after the full-skirted fashions of the 1850s and 1860s.