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This embroidery is nowadays typically done on a multi-head or multi-needle Schiffli machine or loom that has a very large, continuous and overlapping embroidery field. The lace pattern is designed such that the embroidery thread creates an interlocking series of threads that will, in essence, become a "stand-alone" piece of lace.
The original machine made net but it was discovered that the Jacquard apparatus (invented in France for weaving looms by J M Jacquard in about 1800) could be adapted to it. From 1841 lace complete with pattern, net and outline could be made on the Leavers machine.
Tambour lace refers to a family of lace made by stretching a fine net over a frame [1] (the eponymous Tambour, from the French for drum) and creating a chain stitch, known as tambour, using a fine, pointed hook [2] [3] to reach through the net and draw the working thread through.
Variations on the basic machine were the Crowder and Day's improved pusher and Kendall and Morley's machine. [3] The machine was modified by John Synyer in 1829. [4] to allow for bullet holes to be inserted in the plain twist net. A modification was made in 1831 to copy blondes, Marmaduke Miller adder a device to add loops and purls to the lace ...
Embroidered lace is embroidered on a base using a needle. The base varies according to the type. Many techniques use a net, either woven or knotted. The net varies: Woven fabric with threads removed to make a grid (Reticella, Buratto) Machine made hexagonal net (Limerick, Needlerun net, Tambour)
Reticella lace is a form of embroidery in which typical techniques of needlelace are used to embellish drawn thread work. It was first used in 16th century Italy . Needlelace evolved from this when the lacemakers realized that they can do the same things without any supporting fabric.
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