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Wind speed on the Beaufort scale is based on the empirical relationship: [6] v = 0.836 B 3/2 m/s; v = 1.625 B 3/2 knots (=) where v is the equivalent wind speed at 10 metres above the sea surface and B is Beaufort scale number.
A man standing next to large ocean waves at Porto Covo, Portugal Video of large waves from Hurricane Marie along the coast of Newport Beach, California. In fluid dynamics, a wind wave, or wind-generated water wave, is a surface wave that occurs on the free surface of bodies of water as a result of the wind blowing over the water's surface.
In oceanography, sea state is the general condition of the free surface on a large body of water—with respect to wind waves and swell—at a certain location and moment. A sea state is characterized by statistics, including the wave height, period, and spectrum. The sea state varies with time, as the wind and swell conditions change.
Wave growth chart based on the formulas by Groen & Dorrestein [31] Graph depicting the variation of significant wave height with dimensionless fetch based on the Young & Verhagen wave growth formula, set against a specific water depth and wind speed. In the Netherlands, a formula devised by Groen & Dorrestein (1976) is also in common use: [31]
An ocean current is a continuous, directed movement of seawater generated by a number of forces acting upon the water, including wind, the Coriolis effect, breaking waves, cabbeling, and temperature and salinity differences. [1]
From "wind fluctuations": Wind wave formation is started by a random distribution of normal pressure acting on the water from the wind. By this mechanism, proposed by O.M. Phillips in 1957, the water surface is initially at rest, and the generation of the wave is initiated by turbulent wind flows and then by fluctuations of the wind, normal ...
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Ocean currents are the horizontal movements of water from one location to another. The movement of water is impacted by: meteorological effects, wind, temperature differences, gravity, and on occasion earthquakes. Set is the current's direction, expressed in true degrees. Drift is the current's speed, which is usually measured in knots. [1 ...