Search results
Results from the WOW.Com Content Network
Depending on context, wave height may be defined in different ways: For a sine wave, the wave height H is twice the amplitude (i.e., the peak-to-peak amplitude): [1] =.; For a periodic wave, it is simply the difference between the maximum and minimum of the surface elevation z = η(x – c p t): [1] = {()} {()}, with c p the phase speed (or propagation speed) of the wave.
The significant wave height H 1/3 — the mean wave height of the highest third of the waves. The mean wave period, T 1. In addition to the short-term wave statistics presented above, long-term sea state statistics are often given as a joint frequency table of the significant wave height and the mean wave period.
The RMS wave height, which is defined as square root of the average of the squares of all wave heights, is approximately equal to H s divided by 1.4. [2] [8] For example, according to the Irish Marine Institute: [9] "… at midnight on 9/12/2007 a record significant wave height was recorded of 17.2m at with [sic] a period of 14 seconds."
For weather reporting and for scientific analysis of wind wave statistics, their characteristic height over a period of time is usually expressed as significant wave height. This figure represents an average height of the highest one-third of the waves in a given time period (usually chosen somewhere in the range from 20 minutes to twelve hours ...
Wave height (from trough to crest) Wave length (from crest to crest) Wave period (time interval between arrival of consecutive crests at a stationary point) Wave propagation direction; Wave length is a function of period, and of water depth for depths less than approximately half the wave length, where the wave motion is affected by friction ...
The Degree (D) value has an almost linear dependence on the square root of the average wave Height (H) above, i.e., +. Using linear regression on the table above, the coefficients can be calculated for the low Height values ( λ L = 2.3236 , β L = 1.2551 {\textstyle \lambda _{L}=2.3236,\beta _{L}=1.2551} ) and for the high Height values ( λ H ...
For example, in an ocean wave approaching shore, shown in the figure, the incoming wave undulates with a varying local wavelength that depends in part on the depth of the sea floor compared to the wave height. The analysis of the wave can be based upon comparison of the local wavelength with the local water depth. [10] A sinusoidal wave ...
Water wave mechanics for engineers and scientists. Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering. Vol. 2. Singapore: World Scientific. ISBN 978-981-02-0420-4. OCLC 22907242. Dingemans, M. W. (1997). Water wave propagation over uneven bottoms. Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering. Vol. 13. Singapore: World Scientific. ISBN 978-981-02-0427-3. OCLC 36126836.