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kwikfishron. 16250 posts · Joined 2010. #2 · Sep 21, 2015. You are correct.....Your railing height needs to be measured plumb off the nosing of a stair tread. I run my deck stair post wild and lay a straight edge running down the stairs and then measure off the bottom of that edge plumb up the post to mark the correct height.
Wildie. 2294 posts · Joined 2008. #2 · Jun 21, 2009 (Edited) I live in Ontario Canada, and our code requires a height of 42" if the stair rises 24" or more. On a staircase it is measured vertically from the tread nose to the top of the hand rail. A 4" sphere cannot pass through any opening between the balusters or on the stairs.
36" from the stair nose will continue on that angle until the next post. The next post will be on the next flat surface/landing/deck. It makes the deck stair railing higher... probably 37" high compared to the platform. Imagine your stair railing being higher than your platform or deck railing. That's wrong! So my question is this.
The railing is set at 36" high leaving a small reveal (2") before the post sleeve cap. You say it's a second story deck so I will assume it's at least 8' off the ground. Where I live the code height for railings on a deck that high is 42" - height from the top of the deck to the top of the railing top rail.
First off, any stair of 3 rises or more must have handrail by code. You also must have a continuous handrail from top to bottom of the staircase. Now, for the question of chair-rail on a staircase, it's very common, along with the wall frames. You asked about making a transition in height at the top of the stairs.
As far as I can tell, Brighton follows this code: 1009.3 Stair treads and risers. Stair riser heights shall be 7 inches (178 mm) maximum and 4 inches (102 mm) minimum. Stair tread depths shall be 11 inches (279 mm) minimum. The riser height shall be measured vertically between the leading edges of adjacent treads.
Help with Massachusetts Stair Code, please! I had a friend help me months ago frame out a bathroom upstairs in my barn. Everything had to be cheated a certain way to make room for certain hallways, etc... What I'm left with, is a very small area with which to build a staircase. I will be building it with a landing and a 90 degree turn.
Screw one half of the bedrail fastener to the studs. I would possibly attach to every stud on the stairs. Attach the other half to a scrap of wood, and attach the standard handrail & brackets. I’m not sure what size the removable stud should be. I want to say a scrap of 2x4 but thats a bit thick.
The stairs were framed with the open stringer but we decided against an open stairs case and go with a knee wall. First picture... I would remove the outside most stringer and replace with (2) 2x12" then build the wall on top of that. The second picture... I remove the stringer and build off the slope of the stairs.
It looks down into the room below. There is a standard railing running 10-12 feet horizontally with standard ballusters running vertically preventing people from falling into the room below. We have two very young kids who are climbers. This is a highly-used area of the house. The kids move stuff near the railing and could climb over and fall.