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A vapor barrier on the warm side of the envelope must be combined with a venting path on the cold side of the insulation. This is because no vapor barrier is perfect, and because water may get into the structure, typically from rain. In general, the better the vapor barrier and the drier the conditions, the less venting is required. [7]
Concrete normally allows moisture to pass through so a vertical vapor barrier is needed. Barriers may be a coating or membrane applied to the exterior of the concrete. The coating may be asphalt, asphalt emulsion, a thinned asphalt called cutback asphalt, or an elastomer. [9] Membranes are rubberized asphalt or EPDM rubber. Rubberized products ...
Open-cell foam is porous, allowing water vapor and liquid water to penetrate the insulation. Closed-cell foam is non-porous, and not moisture-penetrable, thereby effectively forming a semi-permeable vapor barrier. (N.B., vapor barriers are usually required by the Building Codes, regardless of the type of insulation used.
Housewrap functions as a weather-resistant barrier, preventing rain or other forms of moisture from getting into the wall assembly while allowing water vapor to pass to the exterior. If moisture from either direction is allowed to build up within stud or cavity walls, mold and rot can set in and fiberglass or cellulose insulation will lose its ...
Water expands when it freezes, Sperlich said, so people should drip indoor facets when temps dip below 32 degrees. Just make sure you drip the farthest faucet from your main valve. "You don't have ...
using an diffusion tight vapor barrier (vapor check) on the warm side of the insulation, i.e., inside the assembly on a heated building and outside on a cooled building. [4] Vapor barriers can be problematic because they difficult to install perfectly and also reduce the ability of a cavity to dry out when it does get wet.
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