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The present form of chikan (meaning elegant patterns on fabric) work is associated with the city of Lucknow, in Uttar Pradesh. Chikan embroidery on silk is Lucknow's own innovation. The other chikan styles are that of Calcutta and Dacca. However, characteristic forms of stitch were developed in Lucknow: phanda and murri. [12]
The technique of chikan embroidery is known as chikankari (चिकनकारी چکن کاری).Chikankari is a delicate and artfully done hand embroidery on a variety of textile fabrics like cotton, chanderi, muslin, georgette, viscose, silk, organza, net, etc. White thread is embroidered on cool, pastel shades of light muslin and cotton garments.
Kantha is a form of embroidery often practised by rural women. The traditional form of Kantha embroidery was done with soft dhotis and saris, with a simple running stitch along the edges. Depending on the use of the finished product they were known as Lepkantha or Sujni Kantha .
Jali panels in Rajput style, Hawa Mahal, Jaipur Jali screens in the tomb of Akbar the Great near Agra, India. A jali or jaali (jālī, meaning "net") is the term for a perforated stone or latticed screen, usually with an ornamental pattern constructed through the use of calligraphy, geometry or natural patterns.
Neran meaning "eye brows" is a unique style which adopts buttonhole stitch in the shape of a curve. [ 1 ] Pakko done by the Sodha, Rajput and Megwar people, which is akin to the Ahir style with dominance of geometric designs with an embossed appearance and is embroidered with close knitting with buttonhole stitches.
The predominant form of this stitch is called the phor or kantha stitch. [17] Other forms of stitches used include the Chatai or pattern darning, Kaitya or bending stitch , weave running stitch, darning stitch , Jessore stitch (a variation of the darning stitch), threaded running stitch , Lik phor or anarasi or ghar hasia ( Holbein ) stitches.
Cutwork frill on a cotton petticoat. Cutwork or cut work, also known as punto tagliato in Italian, is a needlework technique in which portions of a textile, typically cotton or linen, [1] are cut away and the resulting "hole" is reinforced and filled with embroidery or needle lace.
Examples include: Backstitch; Overcast stitch; Cross stitch; Buttonhole or blanket stitch; Chain stitch; Knot stitch; These stitches and their variations are named according to the position of the needle and direction of sewing (running stitch, backstitch), the form or shape of the stitch (chain stitch, feather stitch) or the purpose of the stitch (tailor's tack, hem stitch).