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Wave pounding is a force of erosion along coast lines. The effects of wave pounding are influenced by wave shape, ocean chemistry, rock type, and morphology of the coastal landscape. There are three different types of waves to consider in this process: spilling, plunging, and surging waves.
Coastal erosion is the loss or displacement of land, or the long-term removal of sediment and rocks along the coastline due to the action of waves, currents, tides, wind-driven water, waterborne ice, or other impacts of storms.
Hydraulic action, most generally, is the ability of moving water (flowing or waves) to dislodge and transport rock particles.This includes a number of specific erosional processes, including abrasion, at facilitated erosion, such as static erosion where water leaches salts and floats off organic material from unconsolidated sediments, and from chemical erosion more often called chemical ...
A stack or sea stack is a geological landform consisting of a steep and often vertical column or columns of rock in the sea near a coast, formed by wave erosion. [1] Stacks are formed over time by wind and water, processes of coastal geomorphology. [2]
Breakwater, also called "offshore breakwater", are offshore structure constructed parallel to the shore to alter wave direction and tide energy. The waves break further offshore and therefore lose erosive power. This leads to formation of wider beaches, which further absorb wave energy. A series of breakwaters is often deployed across the beach ...
Splash erosion is generally seen as the first and least severe stage in the soil erosion process, which is followed by sheet erosion, then rill erosion and finally gully erosion (the most severe of the four). [10]: 60–61 [13] In splash erosion, the impact of a falling raindrop creates a small crater in the soil, [14] ejecting soil particles. [4]
True clapotis is very rare, because the depth of the water or the precipitousness of the shore are unlikely to completely satisfy the idealized requirements. [15] In the more realistic case of partial clapotis, where some of the incoming wave energy is dissipated at the shore, [17] the incident wave is less than 100% reflected, [11] and only a partial standing wave is formed where the water ...
After the wave breaks, it becomes a wave of translation and erosion of the ocean bottom intensifies. Cnoidal waves are exact periodic solutions to the Korteweg–de Vries equation in shallow water, that is, when the wavelength of the wave is much greater than the depth of the water.