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Carbide tip blades are the best by far. For plywood, use a high tooth count plywood blade to manage tearout, for crosscutting boards use a narrow set blade with a high tooth count and for ripping use a glue joint wide set rip blade. I don't recommend ripping with a circular saw. That said, a circular saw can never achieve the accuracy of a ...
I'm getting great results with my circular saw using a 24 tooth carbide blade that I picked up at Lowes for $8.00. The key is that I made a set of zero clearance jigs - one 8 ft. long for ripping the 4x8 sheet, and another 56" long for cross cutting.
80-tooth HATB on bottom, 24-tooth TCG on top. Notice the negative hook on the 80-tooth. Pro tip: For better results on both the top and bottom of a cut through plywood, make a skim cut, say 1/32 in. deep, on the bottom first. This severs the fibers on the bottom gently and helps eliminate tearout.
A typical 10-in. rip blade has 24 teeth, each with a flat-top grind (FTG) and a hook angle of 20º to 25º, which helps pull the stock into the blade. The deep gullets help clear the large volume of chips created by ripping. A rip blade will cut thick stock far quicker than a combination blade and with less user effort.
The end caps were made of the same plywood as the tables themselves. I held them in place, flush with the top of the ottoman surfaces, and traced the interior curve. I cut out the waste at the bandsaw and rounded the corners on the disk sander. The long center section was also created from the same plywood as the tables.
If you're not using a zero-clearance insert on your table saw, try that before buying a new blade. If you still aren't getting satisfactory cuts, go for a blade made specifically for plywood and laminates. I'm partial to Freud blades. Their LU98M would be the blade of choice. You can get them at Ballew Saw and Tool.
I just purchased a brand new plywood blade(it has many teeth on it) for my circular saw. I noticed that cutting either 1/2″ or 3/4″ plywood with the good face down that the plywood edge would get burned. I put the blade in another saw with the same results. I switched blades to a 40 tooth blade and the cut was perfect but just a little rough!
2. 10" Woodworker II 20 teeth (Fast Feed Rip) 3. 10" Ply Veneer 70 teeth (Crosscuts and Plywood) 4. 10" Custom Woodworker II 40 teeth #1 OD (Flat Bottom for Groove and Box Joints) 5. 8" 4 Piece Finger Joint Set (new not used yet) American made (NJ) blades with lots of carbon steel for sharpening.
Circular Saw Model (s) Recommendations. Note that I looked briefly at FWW forums/articles about above – and these seem to mostly be from around 2005 or so. To wit. I have a one-off project that will require cutting down quite a number of 4 x 8 big box Birch ply sheets.
I bought a Porter-Cable 7.5″ 325MAG saw, installed a brand-new Dewalt plywood blade, and proceeded to try to cut some 3/4″ plywood (some sanded plywood from Lowe’s) with it. From the first few inches, the saw blade smoked and the wood smoked and burned. The saw labored through the cut ( 48″) but left the wood burned on both sides of the ...