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Sorted by: 2x6 lumber should never be used for joists that span open air. Even on a deck. They're fine for fully supported floors, such as with full-contact rock or gravel bed foundations. Then, since you're using those footing blocks it's not so much a matter of lumber size, but of footing interval. (You can't double the rim joists.)
3. I am planning to build a ground level deck in bay area in northern California where we have pretty nice weather, and no snow in my living area. I am looking for feedback with following specs. finish height 13". on existing uneven concrete patio (highest to lowest is around 1.5") composite deck 1" thickness. 16" OC for internal joist.
Since you're nailing into end grain you need a substantial fastener. Hot-dipped galvanized nails have a rougher texture that grabs fairly well. However, since your deck is floating I'd maybe want to use screws. This will keep any motion that occurs from working things loose. 3-1/2" Torx drive screws that are coated for exterior use would be good.
I’m building a ground level deck in San Diego and trying to source suitable framing lumber. I understand that ground contact rated pressure treated lumber is required, but I’m under the impression that green PT lumber warps over time.
2. I am building a deck on a concrete patio. The patio already does have a roof. It won’t get too wet during a rain and we don’t get much rain during the summer (Northern California). I plan to do the framing with 2x4s, which will sit on the concrete. What should I use to best break the contact between the framing and the concrete to not ...
I'm now thinking I should've laid a vapor barrier before building the framing over the concrete. I'm installing IPE 5/4x6 decking, which I'll face-fasten with 2x SS screws per joist. I'll 'kerf cut' three grooves along the underside of the decking to help relieve swelling in an attempt to avoid cupping.
Basically, framing is done like it is due to the very nature of wood and the inability of a field carpenter to work to a high enough level of precision. – isherwood Commented Jul 19, 2018 at 18:55
0. I'm planning to make a 16'x16' ground level deck overtop an existing 12x12 concrete patio extending into the yard 4 feet on two sides. Id like to keep it at around 9 inches off the ground so I don't need to make a step, and to keep it under my 13 inch door clearance. I've been trying to find a way to hide the deck blocks / supports under the ...
Upwards of 6" of clearance above ground level (grade) is required to minimize moisture rot, specifically, after the buildup beam (min 5.5"), joist structure (min 3.5"), and boards (min 1") and variance (~.5"). Your deck will fall at a minimum of 16.5" from grade (the ground). The kicker of course is that at around 24" you're required guard ...
1 Answer. I wouldn't submerge anything, and ensure that all post holes are filled in concrete and sealed from any water. . With stairs and raised floors eliminate any source of water to prevent wood rot. With the cost of materials these days you can't afford a failure due to rot Anywhere!