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Over the chemise, women wore a loose or fitted gown called a cotte or kirtle, usually ankle or floor-length, and with trains for formal occasions. Fitted kirtles had wide skirts made by adding triangular gores to widen the hem without adding bulk at the waist. Kirtles also had long, fitted sleeves that sometimes reached down to cover the knuckles.
A long gown with a train has fur at the cuffs and neckline and is worn with a wide belt, c. 1460. An attendant in the same illustration wears a red hood with a long liripipe. Her blue dress is "kirtled" or shortened by poufing it over a belt, c. 1460. Woman wears a simple headdress of draped linen and a red houppelande trimmed with white fur ...
Gowns were made in a variety of styles: Loose or fitted (called in England a French gown); with short half sleeves or long sleeves; and floor length (a round gown) or with a trailing train. [20] [21] The gown was worn over a kirtle or petticoat (or both, for warmth). Prior to 1545, the kirtle consisted of a fitted one-piece garment. [22]
Dress in Holland, Belgium, and Flanders, now part of the Empire, retained a high, belted waistline longest. Italian gowns were fitted to the waist, with full skirts below. The French gown of the first part of the century was loosely fitted to the body and flared from the hips, with a train. The neckline was square and might reveal the kirtle ...
Portrait of Thérésa Tallien by Jean-Bernard Duvivier (1806) with Empire waist Brooklyn Museum. Empire silhouette, Empire line, Empire waist or just Empire is a style in clothing in which the dress has a fitted bodice ending just below the bust, giving a high-waisted appearance, and a gathered skirt which is long and loosely fitting but skims the body rather than being supported by voluminous ...
Women would also sometimes wear a neckerchief or a more formal lace modesty piece, particularly on low-cut dresses. [10] The robe à la française or sack-back gown featured back pleats hanging loosely from the neckline. A fitted bodice held the front of the gown closely to the figure.
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