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When pruning limbs off large shade trees, use the three-step approach. The first cut should be from below and 15 or 18 inches out from the trunk. Cut up 1/4-way into the bottom of the branch (not ...
Blackberries and raspberries (excluding red raspberries, which have a different growth habit and pruning schedules) should have their fruit-bearing canes tip-pruned back in late winter to control ...
Sanitation, which includes the removal of all plant debris and infected canes in the fall, reduces places for the pathogen to overwinter. [4] Pruning the raspberry plants and planting in rows will allow for airflow to dry leaves, creating an uninviting environment for fungi. [4]
The disease cycle for cane blight begins when the fungus, Leptosphaeria coniothyrium, enters the vascular tissue of the canes through wounds. [4] [3] Wounds are commonly caused by pruning, but insect damage, freeze injury, or other various forms of mechanical injury can also be points of entry.
While the crown is perennial, the canes are biennial, growing vegetatively one year, flowering and fruiting the second, and then dying. As with other dark raspberries, the tips of the first-year canes (primocanes) often grow downward to the soil in the fall, and take root and form tip layers which become new plants.
Raspberry spur blight is caused by the fungus Didymella applanata. [2] This plant pathogen is more problematic on red raspberries (Rubus idaeus) than on black or purple raspberries. The fungus infects the leaves first and then spreads to the cane. It causes necrotic spots on the cane near the base of the petiole attachment. [3]
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