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These set squares come in two usual forms, both right triangles: one with 90-45-45 degree angles, the other with 30-60-90 degree angles. Combining the two forms by placing the hypotenuses together will also yield 15° and 75° angles. They are often purchased in packs with protractors and compasses.
In most instances, 1degree per side will be sufficient, but between 2 degree and 5 degree per side would be preferable. If the design is not compatible with 1 degree, then allow for 0.5 degree on each side. Even a small draft angle, such as 0.25 degree, is preferable to none at all. [3]
A set square is used in technical drawing, providing a straightedge at a right angle or another particular planar angle to a baseline. They are commonly made from clear plastic. The most common set squares are 45° squares, (one 90° corner and two 45° corners) and 60/30 triangles (a 90°, a 60° and a 30° corner).
The sum of the angles equals 90 degrees (22.5° +67.5°= 90°). It is also obvious from a visual check when using a protractor that where the instruments displays 22.5° is actually 67.5° on the protractor. Many newer slide miters and miter boxes display both angles. Some of the new calculators have a 0° and a 90° references.
The angle of repose, or critical angle of repose, [1] of a granular material is the steepest angle of descent or dip relative to the horizontal plane on which the material can be piled without slumping. At this angle, the material on the slope face is on the verge of sliding. The angle of repose can range from 0° to 90°.
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The centre finder head has two faces meeting at 90°, when attached one edge of the rule bisects the two faces at 45°. The heads are manufactured from either forged steel, cast iron, die-cast aluminium, die-cast zinc, or plastic. Aluminium and zinc heads are cheaper than steel and iron, but less durable and more prone to inaccuracy. [5]
Consider the fabrication of a hollow plastic box, without lid. Once the plastic has hardened around the mold, the mold must be removed. As the plastic hardens, it may contract slightly. By tapering the sides of the mold by an appropriate "draft angle", for instance 2° (two degrees), the mold will be easier to remove.
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