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A conical hennin with black velvet lappets (brim) and a sheer veil, 1485–90. The hennin (French: hennin / ˈ h ɛ n ɪ n /; [1] possibly from Flemish Dutch: henninck meaning cock or rooster) [N 1] was a headdress in the shape of a cone, steeple, or truncated cone worn in the Late Middle Ages by European women of the nobility. [2]
Before the hennin rocketed skywards, padded rolls and truncated and reticulated headdresses graced the heads of fashionable ladies everywhere in Europe and England. Cauls, the cylindrical cages worn at the side of the head and temples, added to the richness of dress of the fashionable and the well-to-do.
Mary of Burgundy wears a headdress comprising a truncated-cone hennin, a jewelled padded roll, and a sheer veil. Women's fashions of the 15th century consisted of a long gown, usually with sleeves, worn over a kirtle or undergown, with a linen chemise or smock worn next to the skin. The sleeves were made detachable and were heavily ornamented. [20]
The hennin was typically a tall, conical headdress, to which long strips of gauze or silk were sometimes attached. The headpiece itself could be so tall that it made the wearer stand up to 12 feet in height. While the hennin was known for its height, the Escoffion was much wider in nature and sat over the wearer's head. [8]
Most commonly worn in Burgundy and France by women of the nobility, the hennin appears from about 1430 onwards. Later, though, this hat spread more widely, especially in the truncated form. Typically, the hennin was 12 to 18 inches (30 to 45 cm) high, generally accompanied by a veil that usually emerged from the top of the cone and was allowed ...
Portrait of Barbara van Vlaendenbergh, c. 1480, 37 × 27 cm (14.6 × 10.6 in).Royal Museums of Fine Arts of Belgium. Portrait of Barbara van Vlaendenbergh is a small c.1470–72 oil on wood painting by Hans Memling in the Royal Museums of Fine Arts of Belgium.
Barbara wears a truncated hennin, a damask silk dress with a white collar, and a wide red belt with a golden buckle. They are presented by Saint Barbara , patron of the donor's wife, [ 12 ] who is shown standing before the tower where she was, by legend, imprisoned, which through innovative use of perspective , she seems to hold in her hand.
The truncated ones seem to be early, like this: Image:Petrus Christus 004 detail.jpg Johnbod 18:21, 1 April 2007 (UTC) The way I see it (allowing for the usual difficulties in terms). You get the heart-shaped hennins from early in C15, then steeples & beehives (NGA Petrus Christi & London one currently gallery 1) from about mid-century.