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The shawl lapel, shawl collar, or roll collar is a continuous curve. Originally seen on the Victorian smoking jacket , it is now most common on the dinner jacket or tuxedo. [ 4 ] This similarly began as informal eveningwear, and was then made in both more and less formal versions, depending on the situation in which it was to be used.
A notched lapel is usually considered more appropriate for a business suit than a dinner jacket but is commonly seen on inexpensive off the rack dinner jackets. [45] According to the Black Tie Guide, the peaked lapel and shawl collar are equally authentic and correct, with the latter being slightly less formal. [41]
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Morning dress consists of: a morning coat (the morning cut of tailcoat), now always single breasted with link closure (as on some dinner jackets) or one button (or very rarely two) and with pointed lapels, may include silk piping on the edges of the coat and lapels (and cuffs on older models with turnup coat sleeves).
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Unlike the gentlemen officers' jacket, which has a pointed lapel, the ladies' jacket features a shawl collar. From the 1970s and prior to the introduction of current women's mess dress in 1996, female officers wore a royal blue Empire line dress made of crimplene material with a loose mandarin neck, long sleeves, and an ankle length hem.
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