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The fabric on which Phulkari embroidery was done was hand spun khaddar (a handloomed plain-weave cotton fabric). Cotton was grown throughout Punjab plains and after a series of simple processes it was spun into yarn by the women on the charkha (spinning wheel).
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The Phulkari is the traditional Punjabi embroidery used to embroider shawls and head scarfs in the Punjab region. Although Phulkari means floral work, the designs include not only flowers but also cover motifs and geometrical shapes. [86] There is reference to Phulkari in ancient texts, folk legends, and literature of Punjab.
Its present form and popularity goes back to 15th century, during Maharaja Ranjit Singh's reign [26] Phulkari also means headscarf, and it comes from the 19th century tradition of carrying an odhani or a head-scarf with flower patterns. Its distinctive property is that the base is a dull hand-spun or khadi cloth, with bright coloured threads ...
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Mashru is a stout, silken, warp-faced fabric textile with a variegated pattern. In its weaving, the loom brings the cotton yarn down and the silk fibers up. This produces a cloth that exhibits a silk face and cotton backing. [12] Hence it was a mix of silk and cotton, although with a satin finish.
Dabba khes is a pattern with squares formed using dyed yarns. [24] [25] Khes from Rampur State was famous for its superior-quality cotton and unique, interwoven patterns, often with gold thread and borders in various coloured yarns. [26] [27] Khes patpatti had white and red check patterns, while khes tukridaar was the name for white and blue ...