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  2. Geostrophic current - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geostrophic_current

    A geostrophic current may also be thought of as a rotating shallow water wave with a frequency of zero. The principle of geostrophy or geostrophic balance is useful to oceanographers because it allows them to infer ocean currents from measurements of the sea surface height (by combined satellite altimetry and gravimetry ) or from vertical ...

  3. Miles-Phillips mechanism - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miles-Phillips_mechanism

    At the same time, but independently from Miles, Owen M. Phillips [10] (1957) developed his theory for the generation of waves based on the resonance between a fluctuating pressure field and surface waves. The main idea behind Phillips' theory is that this resonance mechanism causes the waves to grow when the length of the waves matches the ...

  4. Wind wave - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wind_wave

    A man standing next to large ocean waves at Porto Covo, Portugal Video of large waves from Hurricane Marie along the coast of Newport Beach, California. In fluid dynamics, a wind wave, or wind-generated water wave, is a surface wave that occurs on the free surface of bodies of water as a result of the wind blowing over the water's surface.

  5. Sverdrup balance - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sverdrup_balance

    Sverdrup balance may be thought of as a consistency relationship for flow which is dominated by the Earth's rotation. Such flow will be characterized by weak rates of spin compared to that of the earth. Any parcel at rest with respect to the surface of the earth must match the spin of the earth underneath it.

  6. List of equations in wave theory - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_equations_in_wave...

    The phase velocity is the rate at which the phase of the wave propagates in space. The group velocity is the rate at which the wave envelope, i.e. the changes in amplitude, propagates. The wave envelope is the profile of the wave amplitudes; all transverse displacements are bound by the envelope profile.

  7. Airy wave theory - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Airy_wave_theory

    Airy wave theory is a linear theory for the propagation of waves on the surface of a potential flow and above a horizontal bottom. The free surface elevation η(x,t) of one wave component is sinusoidal, as a function of horizontal position x and time t: (,) = ⁡ where

  8. Speed of gravity - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Speed_of_gravity

    Putting the Sun immobile at the origin, when the Earth is moving in an orbit of radius R with velocity v presuming that the gravitational influence moves with velocity c, moves the Sun's true position ahead of its optical position, by an amount equal to vR/c, which is the travel time of gravity from the sun to the Earth times the relative ...

  9. Kelvin wave - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kelvin_wave

    A Kelvin wave is a wave in the ocean, a large lake or the atmosphere that balances the Earth's Coriolis force against a topographic boundary such as a coastline, or a waveguide such as the equator. A feature of a Kelvin wave is that it is non-dispersive , i.e., the phase speed of the wave crests is equal to the group speed of the wave energy ...