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A double figure-eight loop, (also known as a bunny ears, or a dog eared loop) is a type of knot that forms two parallel loops, and resembles the figure-eight loop. [1]It is frequently used in climbing and caving as an easily untie-able knot that is capable of being attached to two bolts and equalised.
In trad climbing belay stations, load-sharing anchors are often constructed from more than two individual anchors, which are rarely co-planar. In these cases, each individual anchor would feel a reduced force from the above values, but the best practice is to reduce the angle between the two outermost elements and avoid angles in excess of 120 ...
Bowline on a bight: Used for equalizing anchors. Stopper Knots Stevedore knot (also known as Double figure eight): The Stevedore knot is tied at the end of a rope to prevent the end from unraveling, slipping through another knot, or passing back through a hole, block, or belay/rappel device.
Uses include creating friction prusik knots for ascending or gripping fixed climbing ropes, usually using thinner approximately 5 to 6 mm (0.20 to 0.24 in) cord, or for attaching to, and equalizing forces across, multiple fixed anchors points, [15] such as when setting up abseil or belay anchors on multi-pitch climbing routes, usually using ...
A sling is an item of climbing equipment consisting of a tied or sewn loop of webbing. These can be wrapped around sections of rock, hitched to other pieces of equipment, or tied directly to a tensioned line using a Prusik style knot. They may be used as anchors, to extend an anchor to reduce rope drag, in anchor equalization, or to climb a ...
Other uses include anchoring machines to poured concrete floors [7] and buildings to their concrete foundations. Various typically disposable aids, mainly of plastic, are produced to secure and align cast-in-place anchors prior to concrete placement. Moreover, their position must also be coordinated with the reinforcement layout. [3]
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The anchor selection, together with additional reinforcement, and rigging arrangements is influenced by: - The dead weight of the element - The number of anchors in the element and the configuration of the anchor - Capacity of the anchor at the specific concrete compressive strengths at time of lift - The dynamic loads applied during lifting ...
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