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3874 posts · Joined 2010. #19 · Nov 29, 2013. Well, for what it's worth, laminate flooring was derived from laminate counter tops. Everything goes round and round it would seem. I agree with above posts about moisture. Laminate counter tops are one piece usually except for the corners.
Begin to finalize positioning and cut and secure the ½" pallet boards to the top of the bartop frame. Secure edge pieces around all sides, with the top part of the edge roughly 5/8" above the ply, or 1/8" above the pallet boards, so as to create a 1/8 inch (or possibly deeper) "bathtub" for the epoxy to fill before it pours over the edges.
Edges first, trim flush, top second. Any top wider than ~24" should bond a plain phenolic layer on back side to even out environmental changes, and avoid warping. The choice of router bit is ubiquitous, as they are disposable tooling. Should plan for 2-3 fresh bits to start every job. Laminate is hard on bits.
Nomad62. 723 posts · Joined 2010. #6 · Jan 21, 2014. Laminated wood will be better. A solid piece will tend to twist, cup, etc. as the moisture content in the air changes.But if the solid piece is one of many, say glued up 2×4's, the tension will be different (and weaker) between pieces, allowing for the top to stay straighter.
The work by pinching the steel shaft between the top and bottom of edges of the hole. There are several bench thickness considerations when using hold fast: As the length of hole becomes shorter; they clamp/hold power is reduced. Typical recommended minimum thickness is 2", but less can be made to work. As the length of hole becomes too long ...
194 posts · Joined 2016. #2 · Aug 31, 2020. Your work bench will take more of a beating than your floor (well at least mine does). Personnel I would use plywood. Just screw it down, no glue. Later when it is all beat up, simply replace the plywood. Your peel and stick will be a bear to remove and replace. Give it a try if you have a small ...
Please keep us updated on how this works out for you in the long run (or maybe doubleDD could chime in). I am planning a bench build myself, and I like this idea better than the hardboard top, however, I have two concerns: - Most laminate flooring instructions say to leave a gap around the perimeter to allow for expansion with the seasons.
I want to use MDF as the top. I am going to laminate two 3/4 inch sheets of MDF to make a 1.5 inch thick top. I came across an idea to protect the MDF top with hardboard. Please see photo. The idea is to make the edge banding a 1/4 inch proud of the surface and to put 1/4 inch hardboard on top and than everything sits flush.
Adding T-track to Laminate Bench Top. I recently acquired a home-built router table/cabinet that fits my needs almost perfectly. The top is a laminate/melamine material without any miter tracks. The previous owner simply used clamps to hold the fence in place. I would like to add two T-tracks for fence adjustment and 1 for a miter gauge.
Cut a groove into the back of the face panel, then pulling the panel square at the top will work fine. Need to just include some formers beneath, and you will then have a hollow form, with a contoured top, and flat inside. The curves are gentle enough that thin ply will follow it. You can always laminate a panel in a vacuum bag.