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The key is normally unique to each set of nuts. Only one locking nut per wheel is normally used, so they are sold in sets of four. Most designs can be defeated using a hardened removal tool which uses a left-hand self-cutting thread to grip the locking nut, although more advanced designs have a spinning outer ring to frustrate such techniques.
The nuts themselves may have a mechanism that retains them inside the wheel once it is removed from the hub, to prevent loss and further streamline wheel changes. FIA rules also mandate an additional locking mechanism be included in F1 centerlock hubs, which manufacturers have implemented in different ways.
Ideally, the nuts (or bolts) should be tightened with a torque wrench. Lug wrenches are much less expensive because they lack the ability to measure or limit the force used. Installing a wheel with a lug wrench thus requires a bit of rough guessing about proper tightness. Excessive force can strip threads or make the nuts very difficult to remove.
A locknut, also known as a lock nut, locking nut, self-locking nut, prevailing torque nut, [1] stiff nut [1] or elastic stop nut, [2] is a nut that resists loosening under vibrations and torque. Prevailing torque nuts have some portion of the nut that deforms elastically to provide a locking action. [ 2 ]
A single wheel nut indicator. A common type of loose wheel nut indicators are small pointed tags, usually made of fluorescent orange or yellow plastic, which are fixed to the lug nuts of the wheels of large vehicles. [2] The tag rotates with the nut, and if the nut becomes loose, the point of the tag shifts noticeably out of alignment with the ...
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