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A yuanlingshan (Chinese: 圓領衫; pinyin: yuánlǐngshān; lit. 'round collar jacket') is a type of round-collared upper garment in the traditional Chinese style of clothing known as Hanfu; it is also referred to as a yuanlingpao (圓領袍; yuánlǐngpáo; 'round collar gown/robe') or a panlingpao (盤領袍; pánlǐngpáo) when used as a robe (called paofu [1]: 17 ).
Gowns were made in a variety of styles: Loose or fitted (called in England a French gown); with short half sleeves or long sleeves; and floor length (a round gown) or with a trailing train. [20] [21] The gown was worn over a kirtle or petticoat (or both, for warmth). Prior to 1545, the kirtle consisted of a fitted one-piece garment. [22]
The long, tight sleeves of the early 17th century grew shorter, fuller, and looser. A common style of the 1620s and 1630s was the virago sleeve, a full, slashed sleeve gathered into two puffs by a ribbon or other trim above the elbow. In France and England, lightweight bright or pastel-coloured satins replaced dark, heavy fabrics.
The shift or smock had full sleeves early in the period and tight, elbow-length sleeves in the 1740s as the sleeves of the gown narrowed. Some women wore drawers (underpants) in England. For instance, as early as 1676 inventory of Hillard Veren had "3 pair of women drawers".
Houppelandes were full-cut, floor-length dresses with high collars and full sleeves. [11] Gowns were also long dresses, but they had open necklines, a closer-fitted bodice, and sleeves that became more fitted as the century progressed. [12] Both houppelandes and gowns were often belted just below the bust. [12]
Anne's gown is open at the front to reveal a figured silk kirtle beneath. The gowns have wide sleeves with turned-back cuffs lined in fur, 1508. Anne Stafford wears a black fur-lined gown with turned-back sleeves over a dark kirtle [13] She wears a soft sash at her waist and a sheer partlet over a square-necked chemise, c. 1535.
The couple exchanged a loving gaze in photos outside the fashionable function.
As in the previous centuries, two styles of dress existed side-by-side for men: a short (knee-length) costume deriving from a melding of the everyday dress of the later Roman Empire and the short tunics worn by the invading barbarians, and a long (ankle-length) costume descended from the clothing of the Roman upper classes and influenced by Byzantine dress.
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