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Grey wool covert coat with notched lapels and black velvet collar, made by Aquascutum. A covert coat or Crombie coat is a gentleman's overcoat typically with notched lapels which originated in the late 19th century as a "short topcoat" to be worn for hunting and horse riding.
Both the top-frock and over-frock coats were woollen, like most male garments of the time, and were made in varying weights, ranging from just 14oz for mild-weather topcoats, to 20 or 30oz for really cold weather. Wool was not a prerequisite, but was the most common material, and came in a range of qualities, the finest being that of a Merino ...
The Ulster coat, a working daytime overcoat initially with a cape top covering sleeves, but then without; it evolved to the polo coat after losing its cape. The Inverness coat, a formal evening or working day overcoat, with winged sleeves. The Paletot coat, a coat shaped with side-bodies, as a slightly less formal alternative to the frock overcoat.
Frock coats, albeit often in other colours than black, survive until this day in the livery of hotel staff. King Tupou VI of Tonga (born 1959) is a frequent wearer of frock coats. Examples of frock coats in fashion in the 21st century include Alexander McQueen in 2012, [12] Prada's autumn edition in 2012, and Paul Smith in 2018. [13]
Boiled wool is a type of fabric primarily used in creating berets, scarves, vests, cardigans, coats, and jackets. To create this fabric, knit wool or wool-blend fabrics are agitated with hot water in a process called fulling. This process shrinks the fabric and results in a dense felted fabric that resists fraying and further shrinkage. [1]
The Chesterfield coat, with its heavy waist suppression using a waist seam, gradually replaced the over-frock coat during the second half of the 19th century as a choice for a formal overcoat, and survived as a coat of choice over the progression from frock coat everyday wear to the introduction of the lounge suit, but remained principally associated with formal morning dress and white tie.
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