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Phulkari (Gurmukhi: ... Madder brown, rust red, or indigo were the usual background colours for a base for the embroideries. White was used in Bagh by elderly ladies ...
English: Photograph of a Patiala Punjabi woman (Ilahijan Tawayif) in Phulkari, ca.1900. Photo India heritage biz. Photo India heritage biz. Fig.3: A "Tawayif" (Courtesan) Named "Ilahijan" - Circa 1900
Famous for Phulkari are the cities of [28] Amritsar, [28] Jalandhar, [28] Ambala, [28] Ludhiana, [28] Nabha, [28] Jind, [28] Faridkot, [28] and Kapurthala. [28] Other cities include Gurgaon (Haryana), Karnal, Hissar, Rohtak and Delhi. Bagh is an offshoot of phulkari and almost always follows a geometric pattern, with green as its basic colour.
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Engagement is a significant part of a Punjabi wedding. First, the girl is draped with a phulkari (very decorative dupatta), which is usually very ornate. In some families this chunni is a family heirloom, passed down from generation to generation. She is also presented with jewellery, which her mother and sister-in-law help her wear.
The patterns are termed hangaiyan. Tadvalkar (2011) states that the "cow-dunging process is known as lipna in the region, whereas the floor art is referred to as likhnoo (writing), dehar (with respect to dehali, the threshold) or chowk". The background is painted with brown coloured earth (loshti).
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Phulkari dupattas, which originate from Punjab, display intricate floral patterns, while Bandhani dupattas (or Bandhej dupattas), originating from Gujarat and Rajasthan, feature tie-dye patterns. Dupattas can also be made from velvet or silk , or printed with modern designs; Banarasi silk dupattas, native to Varanasi , are adorned with zari ...