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Hi All, Working on my first bathroom renovation, my 2nd tiling job (first was a fireplace hearth), and first plumbing job ever so I apologize for my amateurish questions. I removed the hardwood flooring in this 1/2 bath and already put down Schluter Ditra XL and Schluter All-Set over the...
I was putting in a new toilet and discovered the previous owner had the old toilet attached to a plastic flange that was not attached to a very rusted out cast iron toilet flange. This was beyond my scope so I had a plumber come out. They tried to fit an adapter inside the pipe but it was too big.
That is the absolute minimum that the flange can project from the wall. Use a straight edge across the back of the toilet to measure that distance from the plane of the back of the toilet to the plane of the face of the flange. Then I would suggest that the flange can be at least 1/4 inch further into the room to give the gasket some squish.
We are doing new floor tile in both bathrooms and when the master bath toilet was removed, we found lots of tiny tree roots growing up alongside the sewer pipe and out from underneath the toilet flange. The roots are on the outside of the sewer pipe and coming up thru the sewer pipe hole in the concrete foundation.
I have the old toilet removed and the flange cleaned up and ready to install. Came back here to double check everything before dragging out the drill, and I see these comments on the flange being flush with the FF. My flange is flush with the concrete floor, and the thickness of the tile below FF, maybe a quarter of an inch, but solidly mounted.
Is there any reason I would NOT want to use 4" pipe all the way to the toilet flange. I could reduce it down to 3", but it is just as easy to keep it 4" and uses less fittings (no need for a 3" to 4" reducer). Is 4" ok? As for the vent, that is about 5' away and will be 3" to fit in the wall.
My guess is that the remnant of the old toilet flange has a slightly smaller inner diameter than a 3" schedule 40 pipe. After checking that the the 3" inside flange really does fit a piece of 3" pipe, I'd chamfer the top corner of the existing opening, and then sand/scrape/otherwise relieve the inner surface of the remnant toilet flange until ...
OK, it seemed simple enough: I bought an Oatey TKO toilet flange with the stainless steel swivel ring on it. I wanted to remove the test seal molded into it because I'm just replacing the bend and the flange, and no test was going to be performed. So simple, even a picture is on the label...
Charlotte's metal ring toilet flange's PVc was about 5" wide and sat below the metal flange. Oatey's 3" or 4" easy tap stainless steel flange has the PVC sitting just a little below the metal ring. Probably about 4 1/2" wide. Souix Chief's PVC is flush with the bottom of the metal ring.
After removing an old toilet I discovered that the PVC toilet flange was warped, undoubtedly due to the previous owner over tightening the flange bolts. I've now tiled the floor and need to install a flange extender. My concern is that due to the warping of the existing flange there will be a void under the extender.