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1422 posts · Joined 2000. #5 · Apr 19, 2009. 1) The base should not be sanded before clearing. 2) The finish job will only look as good as the base. Clear hides nothing so any problems in the base must be corrected first. 3) The only time you need to wet sand between clear coats is if you wait longer than 24 hours.
The sanding between clear coats gets rid of 80% of the orange peel compared to a multi-layered traditional BC/CC paint job. Think of it this way: 2-3 coats of base, then 2-3 coats of clear creates a lot of orange peel. If try to sand it out using 1500 & 2000 as you should, it takes a lot more elbow grease, time & sweat.
Here's were I need your opinion. The car has never been cut and buffed from when it was painted, so the clear has tightened up a little. Do you guys think doing the car his way will be enough to make it look like glass? Or do I have to have them wetsand it first? Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
B. bhawk. 578 posts · Joined 2000. #3 · Sep 26, 2006. For Sherwin Williams clear, my supplier told me to cut and buff after 48 hours but preferably within 7 days. I did alot of sanding and buffing after 7 days, it just got a little harder (took more passes) to buff the clear. You should read the tech sheet on your clear, they usually say when ...
Once it's all sanded with 600, clean and dry the entire car and look down the sides in different light angles. You might be surprised at what you see. Apply 2 coats of the uretahne color and let dry a few days. Then wet sand again with 800 to remove all of the orange peel, imperfections including runs and any dirt.
If you wet sand the clear and then buff, the dullness may come back after the curing process has been complete. I would wait about 7 days before wet sanding and buffing. You shouldn't have any problems then. Every now and then at the body shop we would get a car to return because the paint started to dull out.
Certainly don't want to burn through the clear buffing! Sand out all the orange peel. Sanding block with 1000/2000/3000. After all the orange peel is gone you'll find very little buffing is required to get rid of the 3000 grit sand scratches. Trying to buff out all the orange peel would take forever and you wouldn't have as flat a finish as you ...
That DA in my opinion is too aggressive . I would wetsand with 2,000 with a little dishsop in the water. Or your compound is too fine. Sandpaper puts scratches in it, you need to gradually get to around 1500 or so to easily buff them out. If you break through the clear you will need to repaint, so be very careful.
Since you have tried to wetsand and buff the clear and still see the srcatches the only thing that will rid the srcatches will be a repaint. I Would wet sand the ENTIRE part with 1000 grit or even 800 grit. Apply one or two coats of base, then allow the base to flash off, most are around 30 mins to clear.
You dont wetsand the base before clearing. If you do you will see sandscratches. If you NEED to sand the base, you can, but you need to recoat it before you clear.You don't need to sand in between coats of clear like with laquer. Put on three coats and you will have plenty of clear for a good cut and buff when its cured.