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To directly answer the question--I just loose-laid the foam sheets down on the floor, no foam adhesive. But using some foam (in the right amounts, per Martin) would do a nice job of filling any air gaps below the foam, and helping (possibly) deal with an uneven substrate. I used housewrap-type tape to seal the foam joints as an air barrier.
Put down roof felt. Put full sheets of 2” foam on top of the sheathing and felt tacked in place. I know two layers of 1” foam would be ideal but that’s more expensive per R. Finally, lay down 1x4s parallel to the ridge at 24” spacing and screw those through the foam, felt and sheathing into the rafters.
I was thinking of not sealing the perimeter prior to installing the rigid foam to give any moisture entering the cavity an avenue to escape. Although no moisture should really be entering the cavity from the inside and to the best of my knowledge, polyiso is vapor-impermeable (not sure about the 1 part foam but I think it is vapor-permeable).
Building scientists Joseph Lstiburek and Peter Baker have reported that adding 1 in. of R-5 insulation to a 2×6 wall insulated with fiberglass batts increases the effective R-value of the wall from 14.4 to 19.4—a 35% gain with only a 15% increase in wall thickness. Adding 2 in. of foam raises the R-value from 14.4 to 23.8, an improvement of 65%.
The R-value of EPS ranges from about R-3.6 to R-4.2 per inch. In most cases, the higher the density of the EPS, the higher the R-value per inch. The R-value of XPS is R-5 per inch. The R-value of polyisocyanurate is R-5.7 to R-6 per inch (although cold-climate builders sometimes use a lower R-value because polyisocyanurate performs poorly at ...
One-inch vertical leg gets nailed to the bottom 2-by plate, through the 1 in. foam. Middle, "horizontal" leg that is not horizontal covers the thickness of foundation foam, and the last leg extends well into the ground. Just needed hand brake and shears to work the corners in the field.
Rigid insulation has an R-value of up to 6.5 per inch, but it also can be an effective vapor retarder. Ed Welch touched off an extended discussion in the Green Building Advisor’s Q&A section when he asked whether the foam would trap moisture inside walls, creating mold as well as the potential for structural decay.
myuschak | Posted in Green Building Techniques on November 22, 2010 10:26am. I live in a three story end unit town house. I am getting ready to remodel the master bedroom. Our closet is on the north exterior wall and I was looking to remove the existing sheet rock on the north wall and install new insulation along with stryofoam insulation board.
Currently, I'm planning on: 1. installing the rigid foam directly over the logs (since it's a kit home and the logs are milled, the exterior surface is largely in plane and free from excessive bumps, warping and inconsistencies); 2. then installing furring strips; 3. and then the siding.
There are many construction and insulation approaches which allow a builder to create walls and ceilings with high R-values and low levels of air leakage, creating a much better envelope than is achieved with standard framing methods. Structural insulated panels (SIPs), insulated concrete forms (ICFs), double-stud walls, and advanced framing can all produce more energy-efficient buildings than ...