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The first is to have a cut off inside your house, lower then the spigot and it has to have a relief valve on the exterior side to drain the water away from the wall. The other way is a frost spigot that extends about 20" into the warm zone on the inside of the wall. This actually has the shut-off all the way into the house.
This adapter is attached to an outdoor spigot: It is near the location of a former hot tub so I believe it has something to do with pressure control. When I attach a hose to it and turn it on if the hose is not flowing (e.g. a closed nozzle at the end) the water leaks (more like squirts, lots of it) from this adapter, it appears to be from the ...
Outdoor valves are typically "frost free", and the portion of the valve that actually stops the water flow is either inside the heated area of the house, or deep underground. A long stem on the valve allows the user to turn the valve on or off.
There is a long shaft going the length of the assembly. The spigot knob turns the actual valve at the other end. This means the length of the assembly does not have water in it (if you follow the rules!) when the valve is shut. So make sure you convert to this valve type if you don't have it already.
Instead of soldering the spigot directly to the pipe, I think you should solder a 3/4" MNPT fitting directly to the pipe, and then screw the new spigot onto those threads using teflon tape or thread sealant. This makes it easier to replace the spigot next time it fails. All you have to do is unscrew it, and screw in the replacement.
Don't forget NEC 406.8 Receptacles in Damp or Wet Locations., which says "A receptacle installed outdoors in a location protected from the weather or in other damp locations shall have an enclosure for the receptacle that is weatherproof when the receptacle is covered (attachment plug cap not inserted and receptacle covers closed).".
You want to open the outside faucets when the water has been shut off so that the lines are empty when they do eventually freeze. After they've been left to drain for a day, I cover my outdoor faucets with insulating covers. This is also a good time to drain the hoses and bring them into a protected location (e.g. a garage or shed).
You could use an outdoor rated caulk on the outside. On the inside you could use spray foam. I’d caution against using spray foam on the outer side because: 1) many foams are not UV resistant and 2) the expansion might warp your siding.
I have fixed the leaks with basin's faucets but was unable to do it with other four faucets because have failed to remove the faucet covers. They seems to be stuck. To get a better grip I wrapped some duct tape around the chrome covers and then used the spanner - but to no avail. Tried the strap wrench - no luck too.
For a reasonable temporary repair, I'll epoxy the handle onto the stem, and when that breaks just replace the entire spigot ($20) rather than spend hours trying to match parts. Share Improve this answer