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Metal halide bulbs come in a variety of spectra from 5000k on up to 20,000k and allow for a variety of light-hungry corals to survive under them. Many aquarists will use metal halide bulbs in conjunction with either power compact fluorescents or T5 fluorescents since halide lighting does not have the overall balanced effect of other light types.
On fixtures without instant restrike capability, a momentary loss of power can mean no light for several minutes. For safety reasons, some metal-halide fixtures have a backup tungsten-halogen incandescent lamp that operates during cool-down and restrike. Once the metal halide restrikes and warms up, the incandescent safety light is switched off.
Metal halides are available in many color temperatures, from 6500 K up to 20,000 K, though bulbs as high as 50,000 K are occasionally found. The downsides of metal halide lighting are the initial cost and the heat produced. Most metal halide fixtures are more expensive than fluorescent systems, but are required for some reef setups.
Metal-halide and ceramic metal-halide lamps can be made to give off neutral white light useful for applications where normal color appearance is critical, such as TV and movie production, indoor or nighttime sports games, automotive headlamps, and aquarium lighting.
The choices for aquarium lighting are made complicated by variables such as color temperature, (measured in kelvins), color rendering index (CRI), photosynthetically active radiation (PAR) and lumens. Power output available to the hobbyist can range from a meager 9 W fluorescent lamp to a blinding 1000 W metal halide lamp. Lighting systems also ...
Streetlamp with a ceramic metal halide bulb Ceramic metal halide bulb with G12 socket. A ceramic metal-halide lamp (CMH), also generically known as a ceramic discharge metal-halide (CDM) lamp, [1] is a type of metal-halide lamp that is 10–20% more efficient than the traditional quartz metal halide [2] and produces a superior color rendition (80-96 CRI).
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