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Cleaning in vinegar for 15 minutes and tumble for a maximum of 2 hours. I have used the cases for years and everything. Residue, I tumble after cleaning the worst of cases. If there was a curiosity among reloaders one would ask, “Where did the ideal of using an acid to clean cases come from” F. Guffey
I was reading one of the other threads titled "media" and someone mentioned not to use Brasso as a polishing agent because it contains ammonia and can cause the brass to get brittle. I've been using Brasso for years and never had any cases get brittle that I can tell. I have some .45 ACP cases...
The cost savings in ammo more than makes up for the cost of an extractor, bolt or barrel you may need to replace. You are saving around $70 to $80 per thousand compared to brass ammo. All ammo wears on a firearm. I haven't noticed any more wear on mine. I use steel case unless the range requires brass. In 10k rounds you will save $700 to $800.
Being new to shooting lead rounds, I would like to know the best way to get the lead out so to speak. I use brass brushes in the bore but still see some lead left behind in my .44 mag. Suggestions, tricks of the trade?
Use some 0000 Steel wool and oil and start removing the surface rust. Soaking it down in Kroil before hand will help loosen the rust. If dies are rusty try soaking them is a mild hot solution of citric acid. This will attack the rust but not the steel. Even using some emory cloth and do a shoe shine will clean it up too.
For over 10 years, mounted to a 3/4” pressure treated board worked fine, the board being the lip of the table, until I tried forming .40-65 brass from .45-70 brass. Using Redding Imperial Sizing Die Wax still splintered this 3/4” plank.
Here's my procedure for reloading: 1. Tumble brass for 1-2 hours to clean them before resizing. 2. Lube, resize, deprime in press with die. 3. Tumble brass for 1-2 hours to remove lube. 4. Measure each case for length and trim, if needed. 5. Chamfer case mouths on RCBS Trim Mate Prep...
Saw this at MidwayUSA the other day, I remember a while back someone was wondering how to "mark" their brass. This may be a w
MPro-7 works GREAT on powder/carbon fouling in any gun - rifle, pistol, or Shotgun. However is doesn't touch copper fouling, nor does it breakdown lead.
The DSA seemed to be very much overgassed, it would beat up brass, had a terrible trigger, wasn't particularly accurate, was even worse with a suppressor attached, the bolt broke so it had to go back to DSA, the "free float" forend from DSA didn't' work .. and on and on. Ultimately I sold the rifle and don't miss it one bit.