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This is the standard on single-breasted suits, and is used on nearly all suit jackets, blazers, and sports jackets. The notched lapel double-breasted jacket is a rare setting. [6] The size of the notch can vary, and a small notch is sometimes called fishmouth. [7] This was the first type of lapel to appear and is the most common one.
The name comes from a martingale strap used in the horse tack to restrict the movements of the horse's head; [4] another theory suggests that the martingale coat originated in the 15th–16th centuries when a design of a man's martingale breeches [6] included a flap between the legs buttoned to the belt in the back. [4] [1]
The Ulster coat, a working daytime overcoat initially with a cape top covering sleeves, but then without; it evolved to the polo coat after losing its cape. The Inverness coat, a formal evening or working day overcoat, with winged sleeves. The Paletot coat, a coat shaped with side-bodies, as a slightly less formal alternative to the frock overcoat.
The Chesterfield coat, with its heavy waist suppression using a waist seam, gradually replaced the over-frock coat during the second half of the 19th century as a choice for a formal overcoat, and survived as a coat of choice over the progression from frock coat everyday wear to the introduction of the lounge suit, but remained principally associated with formal morning dress and white tie.
An Inverness cape worn with Highland dress, 2007 Tacoma Highland Games. Even though a wide variety of coats, overcoats, and rain gear are worn with Highland dress to deal with inclement weather, the Inverness cape has come to be almost universally adopted for rainy weather by pipe bands the world over, and many other kilt wearers also find it to be the preferable garment for such conditions.
a morning coat (the morning cut of tailcoat), now always single breasted with link closure (as on some dinner jackets) or one button (or very rarely two) and with pointed lapels, may include silk piping on the edges of the coat and lapels (and cuffs on older models with turnup coat sleeves). a waistcoat, which matches the material of the coat.
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