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Although it is often used in tsunami literature, there is no reason to suspect that Hokusai intended it to be interpreted in that way. The waves in this work are sometimes mistakenly referred to as tsunami (津波), but they are more accurately called okinami (沖波), great off-shore waves. Source: File:Tsunami_by_hokusai_19th_century.jpg ...
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In the adjacent diagram, the two waves cancel each other out, creating a flat surface. However, this is a highly simplified version of events. The incoming wave has the same wave period as the edge wave, so the incoming wave changes from a peak to a trough over the same period as it takes the standing wave to change so they keep the same pattern.
A berm is a nearly horizontal portion that stays dry except during extremely high tides and storms. The swash zone is alternately covered and exposed by wave run-up. The beach face is the sloping section below the berm that is exposed to the swash of the waves.
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Pier Ave. beach ramp at Oceano Dunes was closed as waves frothed past the kiosk. High surf runs all the way up Avila Beach to the sidewalk as visitors take in the sight on Thursday, Dec. 28 2023.
The Great Wave off Kanagawa is also the subject of the 93rd episode of the BBC Radio series A History of the World in 100 Objects produced in collaboration with the British Museum, which was released on 4 September 2010. [86] A replica of The Great Wave off Kanagawa was created for a documentary film about Hokusai released by the British Museum ...
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