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The dresses of the previous period featured a separate bodice and skirt. In contrast, the mantua hung from the shoulders to the floor. The earliest mantua was a loose gown worn for 'undress' wear. Gradually it developed into a draped and pleated dress and then into a dress worn looped up over a contrasting petticoat and a stomacher.
A crinoline / ˈ k r ɪ n. əl. ɪ n / is a stiff or structured petticoat designed to hold out a skirt, popular at various times since the mid-19th century. Originally, crinoline described a stiff fabric made of horsehair ("crin") and cotton or linen which was used to make underskirts and as a dress lining.
American petticoat, 1855–1865 Modern petticoat. A petticoat or underskirt is an article of clothing, a type of undergarment worn under a skirt or a dress. Its precise meaning varies over centuries and between countries.
Mantua and petticoat of bizarre silk brocade, British, c. 1708 A mantua (from the French manteuil or 'mantle') is an article of women's clothing worn in the late 17th century and 18th century. Initially a loose gown , the later mantua was an overgown or robe typically worn over stays , stomacher and either a co-ordinating or contrasting petticoat .
In a June 1666 diary entry, Samuel Pepys describes the Maids of Honour in their riding habits of mannish coats, doublets, hats, and periwigs, "so that, only for a long petticoat dragging under their men's coats, nobody could take them for women in any point whatever". For riding side-saddle, the costume had a long, trailing petticoat or skirt ...
Ellinor Guthrie wears a black satin dress trimmed with passementerie, 1865. English shot (changeable) silk taffeta morning dress is trimmed with silk satin and machine-made lace, c. 1865. Los Angeles County Museum of Art, M.2007.211.942a-b. Emilie Menzel wears her hair in a net snood. Her morning dress has a pointed waist and slightly puffed ...
By the 1770s the sack-back gown was second only to court dress in its formality. This style of gown had fabric at the back arranged in box pleats which fell loose from the shoulder to the floor with a slight train. In front, the gown was open, showing off a decorative stomacher and petticoat.
Top: Minoan statuette, 1600 BCE.Verdugada, c. 1470s Bottom: Farthingale, c. 1600.Hoop or pannier, 1750–80. Cage crinoline with steel hoops, 1865. LACMA M.2007.211.380. A hoop skirt or hoopskirt is a women's undergarment worn in various periods to hold the skirt extended into a fashionable shape.