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The jewel was a carcatt (a necklace chain) with a diamond in one piece and a ruby in another, with a tablet (a locket) set with a carbuncle of a diamond and ruby, set around with diamonds. [404] In 1604 King James had the "Great H" dismantled and the large diamond was used in the new "Mirror of Great Britain" which James wore as a hat badge. [405]
To assemble the pieces of the Mirror, James had likely ordered existing Elizabethan jewellery to be broken up. [6] The Sancy diamond, now in the Louvre. The jewel was created in gold with five main stones set into it: four pale diamonds and a red ruby. The ruby and one of the diamonds were table-cut, while two further diamonds were lozenges.
The piece was described as a "pyramidal diamond, 3 balas rubies, 4 pearls with the addition of a table cut diamond of 30 carats and two pointed diamonds", which closely matches the original description of the Three Brothers if it had been altered by adding smaller diamonds. However, there is no definite proof that this was the same item. [35]
A bezel is a strip of metal bent into the shape and size of the stone and then soldered to the piece of jewelry. The stone is then inserted into the bezel, and the metal edge of the bezel pressed over the edge of the stone, holding it in place. This method works well for either cabochons or faceted stones. [6]
The piece is made out of "18k gold and platinum set with 137 round diamonds", and its "interlocking Cs derive from the cipher of Diana, Roman goddess of the hunt". [112] The Princess also wore a pair of earrings at the event, known as Diana Earclips and made out of "mabé pearl, diamond, platinum and 18k yellow gold".
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