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The present form of chikan (meaning elegant patterns on fabric) work is associated with the city of Lucknow, in Uttar Pradesh. Chikan embroidery on silk is Lucknow's own innovation. The other chikan styles are that of Calcutta and Dacca. However, characteristic forms of stitch were developed in Lucknow: phanda and murri. [12]
A jali or jaali (jālī, meaning "net") is the term for a perforated stone or latticed screen, usually with an ornamental pattern constructed through the use of calligraphy, geometry or natural patterns. This form of architectural decoration is common in Indo-Islamic architecture and more generally in Indian architecture. [1]
The technique of chikan embroidery is known as chikankari (चिकनकारी چکن کاری).Chikankari is a delicate and artfully done hand embroidery on a variety of textile fabrics like cotton, chanderi, muslin, georgette, viscose, silk, organza, net, etc. White thread is embroidered on cool, pastel shades of light muslin and cotton garments.
Kantha is a form of embroidery often practised by rural women. The traditional form of Kantha embroidery was done with soft dhotis and saris, with a simple running stitch along the edges. Depending on the use of the finished product they were known as Lepkantha or Sujni Kantha .
Bengali women were free to draw inspiration from their rich indigenous surroundings as well as contemporary stories. To them, the fabric was the artist, and the person was the artisan. In the mid-19th century, the colour schemes and designs began to change to make them suitable for use on modern garments.
Examples include: Backstitch; Overcast stitch; Cross stitch; Buttonhole or blanket stitch; Chain stitch; Knot stitch; These stitches and their variations are named according to the position of the needle and direction of sewing (running stitch, backstitch), the form or shape of the stitch (chain stitch, feather stitch) or the purpose of the stitch (tailor's tack, hem stitch).
Neran meaning "eye brows" is a unique style which adopts buttonhole stitch in the shape of a curve. [ 1 ] Pakko done by the Sodha, Rajput and Megwar people, which is akin to the Ahir style with dominance of geometric designs with an embossed appearance and is embroidered with close knitting with buttonhole stitches.
A tuck can be created when a previous row is knit together, stitch by stitch, with the present row. This forms a round ridge that projects outwards from the face of the fabric, and is used as a decorative detail. Tuck stitches are created by working in hand knitting by working into the stitch immediately below the next stitch waiting on the needle.