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A Prusik loop is made of narrow but strong nylon accessory cord tied into a loop using a double fisherman's knot. [4] A sling or Prusik-dedicated sewn loop can also be used. A short piece of rope spliced to form a circle is called a becket . [ 5 ]
Knot Description Image Adjustable grip hitch: A simple and useful friction hitch, which may easily be shifted up and down the rope while slack. Autoblock (Machard or French Prusik) A friction hitch tied around a thicker rope that can slide while unloaded, but locks when loaded. Commonly used to back up belays. Similar to the Prusik only in ...
When a belayer needs to transfer the load from their harness to the anchor to escape the system: a rope grab (mechanical or friction knot/Prusik) is placed on the load line towards the load, rope is terminated on the rope grab (or the tails of accessory cord are used when using a cordelette with a Prusik as a rope grab) and runs back to the ...
A knot used to attach a rope or line to an object. Palomar knot: A knot that is used for securing a fishing line to a fishing lure, snap or swivel. Pile hitch: A kind of hitch, which is a knot used for attaching rope to a pole or other structure. Pipe hitch: A hitch-type knot used to secure smooth cylindrical objects. Prusik knot
Double loop (surgeon's loop) – for making loops at the end of lines similar to the Surgeon's knot, but with a double strand; Double overhand knot – extension of the regular overhand knot, made with one additional pass; Double overhand noose – hitch knot used to bind a rope to a carabiner; Double pile hitch – attaches a rope to a pole or ...
The term autoblock is also used for a specific type of friction hitch, [5] [2] [6] which is also known as a French prusik or Machard knot, named after its inventor, Serge Machard. [7] [8] Other friction hitches that can be used to build an autoblock system include the Prusik knot, Klemheist knot, and Bachmann knot. The Ashley Book of Knots #505.
Friction knots are held in place by the friction between the windings of line. Knotted-ends knots are held in place by the two ends of the line being knotted together. Stopping may be either a temporary whipping or seizing, the commonest variety consisting of a few round turns finished off with a reef knot .
The double harness bend is an unfinished Fisherman's knot (or even a Double fisherman's knot): the end needs to go through its own half hitch (twice) to form a (double) overhand knot. The double harness bend is an unfinished Blood knot: The half hitches need to take one or several turns around both ropes before going through the eye in the middle.
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