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As the access to materials increased, competition to design the most beautiful patterns rose, with an estimate of over 300 different kogin-zashi patterns being created. In the 20th century, the craft of kogin-zashi was streamlined, establishing the three general types that are seen today: nishi-kogin , higashi-kogin , and mishima-kogin . [ 2 ]
Many sashiko patterns were derived from Chinese designs, but just as many were developed by native Japanese embroiderers; for example, the style known as kogin-zashi, which generally consists of diamond-shaped patterns in horizontal rows, is a distinctive variety of sashiko that was developed in Aomori Prefecture.
Straight patterns are usually classified by the width of the hardened zone (yakiba), and divided into "wide" (hiro), "medium" (cho), "narrow" (hoso), and extremely narrow or "string" (ito) hamons. Conversely, irregular hamons do not simply follow the edge, but deviate from it considerably in various ways.
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Hikeshi banten is a reversible hanten coat worn by hikeshi, Japanese firefighters of the Edo period, often decorated with symbolic images.Firefighter brigades consisted either of samurai (buke hikeshi) or commoners (machi hikeshi).
More widely known sashiko is a more decorative form of boro, and is characterized by geometric patterns. [9] These elements include fish scales, diamonds, mountains, bamboo, leaves, arrows, pampas grass, and shippo-tsunagi (a pattern consisting of interlocking geometric shapes symbolizing the "seven treasures").
Traditional Korean patterns are often featured throughout Korea on architecture, clothes, porcelain, necessities, and more.These patterns can be recognized either by one of the four time periods they originated from (The Three Kingdoms, Unified Silla, Goryeo, Joseon), or by their shape (character, nature, lettering, and/or geometry).
Early Jacobean embroidery often featured scrolling floral patterns worked in colored silks on linen, a fashion that arose in the earlier Elizabethan era.Embroidered jackets were fashionable for both men and women in the period 1600-1620, and several of these jackets have survived.