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As the access to materials increased, competition to design the most beautiful patterns rose, with an estimate of over 300 different kogin-zashi patterns being created. In the 20th century, the craft of kogin-zashi was streamlined, establishing the three general types that are seen today: nishi-kogin , higashi-kogin , and mishima-kogin . [ 2 ]
Many sashiko patterns were derived from Chinese designs, but just as many were developed by native Japanese embroiderers; for example, the style known as kogin-zashi, which generally consists of diamond-shaped patterns in horizontal rows, is a distinctive variety of sashiko that was developed in Aomori Prefecture.
Straight patterns are usually classified by the width of the hardened zone (yakiba), and divided into "wide" (hiro), "medium" (cho), "narrow" (hoso), and extremely narrow or "string" (ito) hamons. Conversely, irregular hamons do not simply follow the edge, but deviate from it considerably in various ways.
Hikeshi banten is a reversible hanten coat worn by hikeshi, Japanese firefighters of the Edo period, often decorated with symbolic images.Firefighter brigades consisted either of samurai (buke hikeshi) or commoners (machi hikeshi).
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More widely known sashiko is a more decorative form of boro, and is characterized by geometric patterns. [9] These elements include fish scales, diamonds, mountains, bamboo, leaves, arrows, pampas grass, and shippo-tsunagi (a pattern consisting of interlocking geometric shapes symbolizing the "seven treasures").
These patterns can be found as far back as prehistoric times, and are considered to be the most primitive patterns. Tools made in the Neolithic period and Bronze Age have repeated stripes, circles and concentric circles as designs. These patterns are thought to represent the sun, rays of sunlight, and rain. Other geometric patterns include:
Often based on tree of life imagery, curving branches with large flowers were a typical design. Early crewel embroideries exclusively used wool thread on linen (modern crewel embroidery encompasses a broader range with the only requirement being extensive use of crewel stitch variations).