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Dyers such as Moriguchi Kako of Kyoto continue to create yūzen dyed kimono, which were so sought after that the contemporary fashion industry designed an industrial method to copy them for use on Western style clothing. Famous designers, such as Hanae Mori, borrowed extensively from kimono patterns for their couturier collections. By the late ...
As the access to materials increased, competition to design the most beautiful patterns rose, with an estimate of over 300 different kogin-zashi patterns being created. In the 20th century, the craft of kogin-zashi was streamlined, establishing the three general types that are seen today: nishi-kogin , higashi-kogin , and mishima-kogin . [ 2 ]
Ōshima-tsumugi kimono are hugely valued for their detailed kasuri patterns and deep black color. They are known as one of the most expensive silk fabrics in Japan. [ 6 ] The cheapest piece costs about 300,000 yen per bolt, or tanmono, and the highest quality costs several million yen.
An unlined (hitoe) kimono made from tsumugi, showing soft drape.Tsumugi (紬) is a traditional slub-woven silk fabric from Japan.It is a tabby weave material woven from yarn produced using silk noil, short-staple silk fibre (as opposed to material produced using longer, filament yarn silk fibres).
If the fabric is a single solid colour, or the pattern was komon (a small all-over reversible pattern), the bolt can be cut anywhere. Otherwise, the patterns would be spaced so that it was in the right place relative to where the cloth would be cut (for instance, so that a kimono's hem patterns were located at the hem on all body panels).
Many sashiko patterns were derived from Chinese designs, but just as many were developed by native Japanese embroiderers; for example, the style known as kogin-zashi, which generally consists of diamond-shaped patterns in horizontal rows, is a distinctive variety of sashiko that was developed in Aomori Prefecture.
Crochet, knitting and needlework pattern books provide instruction and inspiration for hand work projects, while informing on the aesthetics of their time. A particular star of the collection is the Sample Book of Trims with its many samples of elaborately beaded appliques, metallic yarn embroidery and elegantly woven ribbon trimmings.
The first instances of kimono-like garments in Japan were traditional Chinese clothing introduced to Japan via Chinese envoys in the Kofun period (300–538 CE; the first part of the Yamato period), through immigration between the two countries and envoys to the Tang dynasty court leading to Chinese styles of dress, appearance, and culture becoming extremely popular in Japanese court society. [1]
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