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Installing a wheel with a lug wrench thus requires a bit of rough guessing about proper tightness. Excessive force can strip threads or make the nuts very difficult to remove. Also, uneven torque between the various lug nuts, or excessive torque, can lead to warping of the brake rotor if the car is equipped with disc brakes.
Several automotive parts manufacturers market centerlock adapters, designed to convert hubs with a lug nut fastening system to accept centerlock wheels. These consist of one "centerlock adapter" placed behind the rim and bolted to the hub, followed by a locking nut placed in front of the rim and a safety cap. [14] [15] [16]
The key is normally unique to each set of nuts. Only one locking nut per wheel is normally used, so they are sold in sets of four. Most designs can be defeated using a hardened removal tool which uses a left-hand self-cutting thread to grip the locking nut, although more advanced designs have a spinning outer ring to frustrate such techniques.
The appropriate special nut is then attached to the end of the extractor. The nuts can then be turned with a wrench to remove the screw. [1] Straight fluted extractors have less wedging effect than tapered screw extractors, so have less tendency to lock the screws into place.
Should a lug nut become loose, the pointer will move in line with the movement of the lug nut, i.e. the tips no longer point to each other. The wheel nut indicators allow not only a quick and efficient check of the wheels by the driver, but also by the control authorities. In addition, the inspection can be easily documented with a photo.
A distorted thread locknut, [1] is a type of locknut that uses a deformed section of thread to keep the nut from loosening due to vibrations, or rotation of the clamped item. There are four types: elliptical offset nuts, centerlock nuts, toplock nuts and partially depitched (Philidas) nuts.
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