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A chart showing various shapes of the bottoms of surf boards. The surface of the board that rests on the water is usually flat or concave but sometimes convex. The bottom can also feature channels, chines, steps and other planing features shaped into the board in order to maximize, direct or alter water flow across the board's bottom surface.
The Olo surfboard was the largest out of the three types of traditional surfboards (Alaia and Paipo board) that were used by the Hawaiian people. The Olo is twice as long as the modern surfing longboard , measuring up to 5.18 metres (17.0 ft) long, 16.5 inches wide and nearly 6 inches thick.
The alaia's roots span back a thousand years. [3] Lala is the Hawaiian word describing the action of riding an alaia surfboard. Lala is a word found in the Hawaiian dictionary meaning ‘the controlled slide in the curl when surfing on a board.' [4] Princess KaŹ»iulani's alaia board, measuring 7ft 4in long, is preserved at the Bishop Museum.
New and inexperienced surfers typically learn to catch waves on softboards around the 210 to 240 cm (7 to 8 ft) funboard size. Due to the softness of the surfboard the chance of getting injured is substantially minimized. It is possible to learn to surf without an instructor, but the process is usually safer and quicker with a surf instructor. [39]
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Big wave surfing is a discipline within surfing in which experienced surfers paddle into, or are towed into, waves which are at least 20 feet (6.2 m) high, on surf boards known as "guns" or towboards. [1] Sizes of the board needed to successfully surf these waves vary by the size of the wave as well as the technique the surfer uses to reach the ...