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(more or less, removing any combustibles between the stove and wall/floor and then tiling the concrete) Answer: Yes, this is an easy and perfectly acceptable way of dealing with clearances. Concrete on earth is considered non-combustible fo this application, as is masonry and/or earth over 8 inches thick.
The cinder block was previously knocked out when my inlaws installed a wood stove. I am removing the wood stove and all piping associated with it. I bought a DuraVent 3PVL-KHA vent kit. I do not own a pellet stove yet, nor is the interior wall finished, but I want to secure the exterior pieces ASAP because the current setup is janky and unsealed.
I find myself here again at the fountain of info. I'm going through a poured-concrete wall with an 8 inch S.S. metalbestos chimney to a insulated tee and I've got a couple of questions. 1: Do I need a thimble? There's at least 3 feet in every direction to any combustible. I'm concerned with "spot cooling" and build-up at the wall.
So today I used a hammer drill and 1/2 bit to make a 8.5" hole through the 12" block wall. I ended up making the hole through a center of one block so that the edges of the hole would not be cutting through solid block. I made holes in a circle then just drilled those same holes on angles to make a clean hole. Did that on both inside and outside.
My house was built in 1951, and the door leading to the garage from the basement is cut through the concrete blocks. The original carpenter attached jambs to the ends of the block walls, then hung a door between them. It's time to replace the door, and I'm a little unsure of the proper way to approach replacing with a pre-hung door.
After the inside wall thimble, beyond the studs I am at concrete block with a stucco exterior. My question is, do I need to use the thimble on the outside or can I just run a 3.5" hole through the concrete block and stucco to run the vent pipe directly out and not have to enlarge the hole to fit the thimble (I will be adding a 90 degree bend to ...
And is noted, the pipe actually sticks out from the wall a good foot or more. So in all reality, the exhaust is about 1 1/2 feet from the intake. To the measurements I was asked about. My walls are only 2x4s, plus drywall. When you add this to the brick on the outside, the entire width of the wall was about 10 inches thick.
That wouldn't be so common in residential though, conduit in the wall is normally more of a commercial/industrial building issue. Edit: The above would be for a poured concrete wall, if you have a block wall then just as mentioned by others, a hammer drill with a masonry bit is all you need.
I just pushed through my Concrete Block wall .. DuraVent 4PVP-WT - 4" Vent Pipe. Worked just fine. I basically knocked out 1/2 a Block (to the mortar joints) .. It worked better than trying to Core Drill such a big hole. The cavities in the CMU made good areas to spray my Fireblock foam.
I'm removing the end of a non-load bearing concrete block wall in my basement. The lowest row is sunk a half-block deep into the basement slab, per the attached pic. Cutting the lowest block flush to the new edge is a challenge, because the concrete saw I used higher up won't cut flush that way. You can see the red line in the pic. Two ...