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The designs used in Kasuti reflect traditional patterns like palanquins, elephants and lotuses which are embroidered onto Ilkal saris. These saris are usually 9 yards in length and the pallu of the Ilkal sari (the part worn over the shoulder) carries designs of temple towers. [2] This pallu is usually made of red silk with white patterns. [3]
This style of tying the saree is the "koshavam" style (that is going between the legs, in the typical style used by men). Tamil Brahmin women are required to use this style after their marriage [citation needed]. Different communities have evolved different sari styles from the original koshavam style, that requires more material - nine yards.
Also known as 'Lugada', this sari is now regularly worn mostly by elderly Maharashtrian women. However, in contemporary fashion, the trend of wearing nine-yard Kasta sari is picking up fast among the younger lot that wants to keep the age-old Marathi tradition alive. It requires perfect technique, practice and perfection to wear a nine-yard sari.
A sari (sometimes also saree [1] or sadi) [note 1] is a drape (cloth) [2] and a women's garment in the Indian subcontinent. [3] It consists of an un-stitched stretch of woven fabric arranged over the body as a dress, with one end attached to the waist, while the other end rests over one shoulder as a stole, [4] [5] sometimes baring a part of the midriff.
The ladies who perform lavani wear a long sari of length around 9 yards. They form a bun (juda in Hindi or ambada in marathi) with their hair. They wear heavy jewellery that includes thushi (necklace), bormaal, pohehaar, zumka (earrings), Ghungru, kamarpatta (a belt at the waist), bangles, sindoor etc.
Sambalpuri textiles today include furnishing materials, dress materials and saris in silk, cotton and mercerised cotton in a variety of colours and many different designs. Baandha craftsmen are also masters of the 'extra warp' and 'extra weft' style of designing which can be seen in almost all forms of Baandha textiles.
Golden threads are obtained from Surat, the quality being 1200 yard (1080 meters) per tola (11.664 grams). Gold threads are used in double and one of the finest varieties so much so that the closely woven surface looks like a mirror. The texture of the fabric is fairly compact with about 160 ends and 170 picks per inch (2.6 cm).
Nilambari [31] [33] sarees are woven with fine thread (100 count); different designs like chandmama, taj, tajkalka, choukalka, phuljhumka, parijaat, dhakai, karnish, tekka etc are made on the border of the saree with colored threads. [40] This century-old style of Shantipuri sari is one of the favorite sarees of Bengali women.
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