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The Douglas sea scale is a scale which measures the height of the waves and also measures the swell of the sea. The scale is very simple to follow and is expressed in one of 10 degrees. The scale is very simple to follow and is expressed in one of 10 degrees.
The significant wave height H 1/3 — the mean wave height of the highest third of the waves. The mean wave period, T 1. In addition to the short-term wave statistics presented above, long-term sea state statistics are often given as a joint frequency table of the significant wave height and the mean wave period.
Wave height Sea conditions Land conditions Sea conditions (photo) Associated warning flag 0 Calm < 1 knot < 1 mph < 1 km/h 0–0.2 m/s: 0 ft 0 m Sea like a mirror Smoke rises vertically 1 Light air 1–3 knots 1–3 mph 1–5 km/h 0.3–1.5 m/s 0–1 ft 0–0.3 m Ripples with appearance of scales are formed, without foam crests
Miyake reports [3] that the Surf News Network [4] expresses wave heights as "2/3 the height of the wave from crest to trough." This heuristic finds mathematical support as a compromise between two methods of expressing the combined effects of a wave's average upward and average downward deviations from mean sea level, namely a) the sum of the absolute value of a sine wave's average (mean ...
Depending on context, wave height may be defined in different ways: For a sine wave, the wave height H is twice the amplitude (i.e., the peak-to-peak amplitude): [1] =.; For a periodic wave, it is simply the difference between the maximum and minimum of the surface elevation z = η(x – c p t): [1] = {()} {()}, with c p the phase speed (or propagation speed) of the wave.
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Significant wave height H 1/3, or H s or H sig, as determined in the time domain, directly from the time series of the surface elevation, is defined as the average height of that one-third of the N measured waves having the greatest heights: [5] / = = where H m represents the individual wave heights, sorted into descending order of height as m increases from 1 to N.
Bathymetric surveys and charts are associated with the science of oceanography, particularly marine geology, and underwater engineering or other specialized purposes. Bathymetric map of Medicine Lake, California. Bathymetric data used to produce charts can also be converted to bathymetric profiles which are vertical sections through a feature.