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Close-up of a rare contemporary chope made in Rajpura, Punjab (India) in 2015. This is the only style where the outlines of the figures are drawn using black ink. It is then filled by embroidering with darn stitch. In other styles, there are no patterns drawn and the work was done only by counting the threads from the back.
The embroidery styles of the Punjab region include the styles of Multani embroidery which features kalabatun [84] patterns using thin wires. This type of embroidery is also common in the rest of the Punjab region. Kalabatan surkh involves using gold wires on orange coloured and red silk.
Various stitches are employed for Kashida work such as darning stitch, stem stitch, satin stitch and chain stitch. The base material for Kashida is cotton, wool or silk in a variety of colours like white, blue, yellow, purple, red, green and black.
Punjabi men wear the straight cut Punjabi shalwar kameez, kurta, or shalwar. Dhoti, lungi, or tehmat are often worn in rural areas. [10] [11] [12] Other Punjabi shalwar styles include the Pothohari shalwar, [13] Multani shalwar, Dhoti shalwar, and the Bahawalpuri shalwar which is very wide and baggy [14] with many folds.
Various types of embroidery patterns are used for a lehenga-style sari. Bagh, chikan, kashida, kasuti, kantha, sozni, shisha, and zardozi are some of the commonly practiced types of embroidery in the lehenga-style sari. Bagh is a special kind of embroidery done by women in Punjab to be worn during festivals and weddings.
The Punjabi ghagra (Punjabi: ਘੱਗਰਾ) is a four-piece outfit [1] known as tewar or 'ti-or' which was traditionally worn by Punjabi women throughout the Punjab region with the outfit comprising a head scarf (), kurta or kurti, [2] ghagra (long skirt) and either a suthan (baggy trousers with a tight band around the ankles) or the Punjabi salwar (trousers). [3]
Embroidery in India includes dozens of embroidery styles that vary by region and clothing styles. Designs in Indian embroidery are formed on the basis of the texture and the design of the fabric and the stitch. The dot and the alternate dot, the circle, the square, the triangle, and permutations and combinations of these constitute the design.
In Punjab, there is a similar but older dress similar to the salwar known as suthan. [13] The Punjabi suthan suit which is made up of the head scarf, kurta/kurti and Punjabi suthan. [14] There are also the Jammu dress and the churidar. The term salwar kameez also includes the Kashmiri Phiran/suthan outfit.