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So 30 mins gives enough paste to do a whole board saving me at least 2 hours of arduous smd wire-soldering work pin by pin. That's 1.5hrs saved, subtract another 15 min for placing parts & solder paste stenciling. Still 1.25hrs saved per board. Plus no solder wasted and better fillets all around, with no heat damage to components or traces.
In order to gauge the degradation, it is best to put a small amount of paste on a non-wettable substrate, like a piece of ceramic. Reflow the paste and see how well it coalesces. If coalescence is good, the solder paste will reflow into a ball, surrounded by a flux pool that is relatively free of uncoalesced solder particles.
Yeah you can get mains powered fine tip soldering irons with an adjustable electronic temp controller in the plastic handle, I bought a couple for about $18 USD each, perfect to chuck in toolboxes etc for times when you need to fix something for a friend.
You are correct that solder paste needs soldering. Like solder wire, solder paste is solder + flux. When it is heated, the flux helps to clean the oxide from the surface of what you are soldering, and the molten solder then bonds with what is being soldered, forming a solid join as it cools.
Most of the needles I use for adhesives and such are in the 19 to 22 gauge range. I still use fine solder (0.015") for hand soldering and have not used solder paste, because it has such a short shelf life. For applying small dots of whatever or for holding parts, I use "tooth picks" made of music wire. I simply deburr and slightly round the cut ...
Maybe be soldering you mean "soldering with a pencil or iron" Most circuits are made on printed circuit boards. A paste of solder and flux is applied to the board with a stencil. The parts are placed on the board. The board is headed to cause the paste to melt which solders the parts to the board. I do this to make my hobby PCBs.
On difficult to 'tin' wires I use a plumbers 'flux', paste or liquid. Just before you touch the 'solder joint' with the iron. dip the solder end into the paste. The important thing is to clean the joint very well after cleaning, the 'flux' is quite aggresive. You can buy water based fluxes which are more user friendly. Regards EricG
Solder paste will make a huge difference. When soldering NORMAL components with leads, it's customary to apply heat to the interface between the lead and the pad and apply solder to the pad and opposite the soldering iron tip. 63/37 is better than 60/40 for SMT work.
Where can one obtain fluxless, lead-free solder paste? Prefer tin or other low-toxicity, low-melt-temp substances. Also interested in Homemade paste. This product's vendor claims it's fluxless. How can I be sure? **broken link removed**
Hello, We are soldering/desoldering 0402 resistors on/off 4 layer FR4 PCBs. The 0402's are on minimal pads. Is the following 0.5mm radius tip ok?.